Even if Milan Fashion Week is just over, the fashion calendar has not ended. Paris Fashion Week is now on and this means, getting insights from the most interesting shows of the A/W 2012-2013 season.
Inspirational
Manish Arora – Autum Winter 2012 / 2013
What surprises me most about Manish Arora is how color manages to light up the outfits. Whether through graphical prints or color-block accents, influences are spectacular and unusual, eccentric and exciting.
These are seen at Moschino, Manoush and Mary Katrantzou and the silhouettes are quite versatile: skirts with volume – maxi or midi, are worn with conservative coats in an obvious antithesis with the explosion of prints.
Manish Arora – 2012 – 2013
Hidden.
Carven – A/W – 2012 / 2013
The 2012-2013 Carven collection covers a bourgeois color palette with shades ranging from camel and dark red to black and navy. The outfits are lady-like, sophisticated and a certain decency – we loved the midi skirts, embroidery and velvet, turtle-neck blouses, fur collars or deux-piece’s.
A-line dresses with highlighted waists are also featured in the A/W 2012 Carven collection, but even then, turtlenecks and jackets or vests are covering up any obvious skin sightings. It seems that the mystery is a theme of the fall collections. What is hidden is more interesting to follow and exciting to discover. But that is the whole purpose of seduction, isn’t it?
Carven – 2012 – 2013
Nocturnal
Nina Ricci – Fall/Winter – 2012 / 2013
For the fall collection of 2012, Nina Ricci creates designs that seem to be made to be worn at late hours. A lot of transparency, veil or organza define the sensual silhouettes.
I think this state was induced maily by the black and nude outfits, or by the vintage-erotic mood which they carry.
Peter Copping – the creative director, said he was inspired by the pieces that mothers and grandmothers kept them away from prying eyes, in racks or cabinets. These chests that contained lace and silks that were to be given to daughters as dowry. One thing is certain that the general trend for 2012-2013: proportions are mixed – loose or structured silhouettes, for a choice in and own customization.
Nina Ricci – 2012 – 2013
Atemporal
Isabel Marant – Fall/Winter – 2012 / 2013
Isabel Marant didn’t need to show massive changes in the new season, but that’s because once you have positioned the brand as a cool one, it seems that whatever you try, it’s gonna be successful. There were some adaptations of the famous ankle boots, which are now a bit more western and also some cool embroidered romanian blouses.
The idea of broderie anglaise or peasant shirt is a symbol of the season, at Isabel Marant, but also at other designers, as well as many variations of leather pants which are still stron on the runways. It is probably time to give them some rest, as everyone will be wearing them this season! You know what they say “drop it like it’s hot”.
Isabel Marant – 2012 – 2013
Sophisticated
Christian Dior – A/W – 2012 / 2013
It seems that Dior manages to rise up to the expectations even led by Bill Gaytten. Building on dusty balet-inspired shades, with accented waists and feminine creations, the current collection sends a strong vibe of modernity.
The fabrics are a mix between transparency and freedom in movement, and powerful fabric such as tweed or leather. I noticed that peplums are still decorating tops or jackets, but I loved that usually the looks have sleeves and the neckline is decent. Even when it comes to dresses, sobriety is the dominant feature.
Christian Dior – 2012 – 2013
Ornamental
Balmain – A/W – 2012 / 2013
We knew Balmain was not joking when it comes to autumn – winter, but this collection was truly fascinating! Each dress, jacket and trousers is created at the highest level of craftsmanship.
The luxurious tapestry embroidery, stones and pearls that are decorating the collection, are just spectacular. In terms of silhouettes, the shape is mainly bodycon and tight waist. But some of the looks also featured flared trousers and the new midi length which becomes increasingly vivide in the fall 2012-2013 season.
Balmain – A/W – 2012 / 2013
To be continued…
